In the Heart of the City: Natural History in Edmonton

As a long-time Edmontonian, I figured it would only be right to start this off by talking about the things for a naturalist to see in Alberta's capital city. Edmonton is surrounded by a variety of enticing places for nature lovers willing to take a drive out of town, but many folks might not know that there's a surprising wealth of neat plants, animals, and more to be found right in the city. The most important things are to know what you're looking for, and where to go to find it. Sure, you can spot invasive pigeons and such amongst the skyscrapers and parking lots downtown, but there's more to be found only a short train ride away. 

ROCKS and FOSSILS

For those interested in geology and geography, the very shape of the city itself, dictated by the ground it sits on, is noteworthy. Aside from the slopes of the river valley, you might have noticed that Edmonton is pretty darn flat. This geography is thanks to the Ice Age. Tens of thousands of years ago, where Edmonton is now was once the flat bottom of a wide glacial lake. As this lake drained, the subsequent erosion carved out the valley through which the North Saskatchewan River still flows, grinding away at the surrounding rock bit by bit each year. 

Speaking of which, if you've ever looked down on the slopes of the river valley in areas that haven't been covered over by buildings and roads, you may have noticed grey and sandy-coloured rock exposures along the valley wall. One of the easier places to see this is from around the Fort Edmonton Park parking lot looking towards the north side of the river. The sand-coloured soil exposed near the top of the valley is the youngest layer here, deposited during the Ice Age. This does indeed mean that fossils of animals like mammoths, giant sloths, camels, horses, American lions, and more have been found in and around Edmonton. You see such fossils on display at the Royal Alberta Museum. 

Prehistoric rocks of the Horseshoe Canyon Formation exposed along the North Saskatchewan River near Edmonton. Photo by me

Below this Ice Age deposit, the darker rock further down is actually much older. Edmonton sits on a bedrock of late Cretaceous sandstone, which is actually about the same age as the famous badlands seen around Drumheller, but not quite as dramatic looking. On the north side of the river, this rock is called the Wapiti Formation, which runs all the way up to northwestern Alberta and beyond into B.C. Around the Grande Prairie area, numerous dinosaur fossil sites are being found in the Wapiti Formation. On the south side of the river, the rock is known as the Horseshoe Canyon Formation, which also what makes up the fossil-rich badlands of the Drumheller area. This means that there is potential for dinosaur remains to pop up in Edmonton and, indeed, several people have found dinosaur bones and teeth in the river valley, as well as petrified wood. Many of Edmonton's dinosaur remains belong to a big, common duckbilled dinosaur called, fittingly enough, Edmontosaurus. The University of Alberta continues to excavate an Edmontosaurus bone bed in the city every year, which has also yielded teeth from a tyrannosaurid called Albertosaurus. It's worth remembering that, while surface-collecting fossils on crown land is allowed in Alberta, digging them up is illegal for anyone without a permit to do so, and all fossil in Alberta are the property of the government. 

Edmontosaurus on display at the Royal Alberta Museum, alongside an Albertosaurus skull beneath. Photo by me

Plants and Fungi

Rocks and fossils are all well and good, but what if you're interested in looking at things that are still alive? The ecology of the Edmonton area is another interesting topic of its own. The Edmonton area sits in the Central Parkland Natural Subregion, which is a sort of transitional zone between the open grassy prairie to the south and the vast boreal forest to the north. Open meadows with strands of forest made up mostly of trembling aspen trees characterize this region. White spruce, paper birch, and balsam poplar can also be found in this region, as well as marshy lakes and wetlands, black spruce and tamarack in boggier areas, and pine forests in drier parts. There's a whole variety of shrubs and grasses too, including plants like saskatoon and raspberry which yield healthy and delicious fruits. There's nothing like picking a handful of fresh purple saskatoon berries with their sweet, nutty flavour while on a summer stroll through the river valley. The white berries of the red osier dogwood, on the other hand, taste as unappetizing as they look. 

Edmontonians with a love of botany should look into the Alberta Native Plant Council, an organization dedicated to studying and conserving our native plant species. It's worth noting that many popular decorative plants we use in our gardens and yards aren't actually from here. Nothing wrong with enjoying some beautiful exotics, but if you want to see more local pollinating animals in your yard, planting more native flora will be appreciated by the critters that stop by.

Saskatoon berries are a staple of summers in the Alberta Parkland. Photo by me

Spend enough time looking at plants and you'll probably notice other living things pretty quickly. Most people probably overlook fungi like mushrooms as just dull brown vegetation, but fungi are neither plants nor are they necessarily all that dull. Sure, most we see don't move much, but they don't photosynthesize to produce their own food like plants do. Instead, they need to consume food outside their own bodies, which for most fungi means decomposing dead things. The vast majority of fungi in the world are tiny microscopic things like yeasts and such, but unless you carry a microscope around at all times they aren't exactly watchable. Things like mushrooms and polypores (those shelf or hoof-shaped fungi that grow on tree trunks) are much easier to look at. Fungi have their own unique anatomy, and what we see of them sticking out of the ground is only a part of the extensive rootlike system of hyphae that makes up most of their structure. Some local mushrooms are apparently edible, while others are dangerously toxic. I couldn't tell you which species are which, and I don't like eating mushrooms to begin with, so make sure you've made a completely positive identification before sampling any mushrooms out there. The Alberta Mycological Society is a good place to learn all about wild mushrooms from other knowledgeable enthusiasts. 

Insects

If things that don't move around much aren't for you, Edmonton is home to a great variety of 'bugs', so many that learning them all can keep you busy for years to come. By 'bugs', by the way, I really mean any sort of multi-legged creepy-crawly. Insects, crustaceans, myriapods, arachnids, and so on. In a technical sense, the word 'bug' refers to the insect order Hemiptera, the 'true bugs' according to entomologists. However, so many people use the word' bug' for most types of commonly seen invertebrates, and I can't change that here. 

Usually the first bugs people tend to really take notice of are biting pests like mosquitoes. The size and ferocity of these blood-suckers is kind of a source of ironic pride in western Canada. Well, to be fair, it's only the females who suck our blood. The males are pollinating nectar-feeders, but biting mosquitoes are responsible for passing along deadly diseases in many parts of the world, so all in all the effect that mosquitoes have had on humanity has been very mixed indeed. Mosquitoes lay their eggs in shallow, still water, and after the harmless larvae hatch and go about their metamorphosis they emerge fully-winged to drive us bonkers every summer. That's why places with shallow ponds and such tend to be so dense with these annoying bugs. 

Ponds and wetlands are more than just biting bugs, though. Bring a net and a bucket to your local pond, scoop up some water and gunk from the bottom, and you'll find a whole plethora of invertebrates living complex lives below the surface. You could find snails, leeches, water mites, and a variety of little freshwater crustaceans like fairy shrimp and scuds. Water bugs (true bugs in this case) include the backswimmers which are easy enough to notice based on their swimming habit, and the water boatman. There are also predatory water beetles which terrorize the smaller creatures of the wetland. Some flying insects like crane flies, caddisflies, damselflies, and dragonflies start out as aquatic larvae. Some of these are harmless vegetarians, but the larvae of diving beetles and dragonflies are carnivores that feed on other pond creatures. Alberta Parks has a handy guide to common pond bugs of the province here, so you can get to know the players as you watch this aquatic drama unfold yourself. Just watch out for the giant water bug. It's big, its scary, and it bites! 

Dragonflies and damselflies are watchable and can be identified with some practice, and we also have many kinds of moth and, for braver folks, bees and wasps. Countless beetle species can be found everywhere from under dead leaves to sand dunes to flowers to dead tree trunks and beyond. My favorite flying insects, however, would have to be butterflies. Edmonton is home to a decent enough selection of butterflies that getting to know them isn't too hard. Some prefer to occupy certain areas and at certain times of the year, so you'll have a revolving door of butterfly activity from mid-spring to early fall. The wings of butterflies are big and distinct enough that you can tell them apart just by getting a good look at the wings. While it used to be in vogue to catch, kill, and pin butterflies to make a collection, amateur folks like me are often happy enough to try and get close-up pictures of butterflies instead. For passionate butterfly enthusiasts, the Alberta Lepidopterist Guild is the place to meet like-minded folks. 

A mourning cloak butterfly, a species that's both beautiful and easy to find. Photo by me

Amphibians and Reptiles

If vertebrates (creatures with bones) are your thing, there's also plenty to see. Most folks aside from anglers probably wouldn't call fish watchable wildlife, but even in the midst of the city you can spot different species of minnows, sticklebacks, and suckers in clear enough water. Go to nearly any large enough pond or wetland and you'll hear the distinctive call of wood frogs and boreal chorus frogs- these critter are just about always easier to hear than to see. What's the difference between them? Wood frogs quack like little ducks, while boreal chorus frogs sound like someone running their finger nail down the teeth of a comb. Not exactly your classic frog 'ribbit', but hey, it's distinct. The ability for these frogs to freeze solid and survive the winter is legendary thanks to some complicated chemistry, and they're not even our only amphibians. There's also the boreal toad, and we're in the northern range of the tiger salamander. Like frogs and toads, this stripy amphibian starts out as an aquatic larva before morphing into a land-based adult. Tiger salamanders, which are part of the mole salamander family, spend much of their time in damp, shallow burrows. You might spot these burrows in the soil of banks along walking trails in wooded areas. Because of this habit of sheltering in protected underground places, these animals sometimes find their way into people's basements, so keep an eye out for lost salamanders in your home. 

Alberta is home to relatively few reptiles species, with only one lizard found in the deep south of the province, but we have a surprising diversity of snakes. Down south you can find large species like the bullsnake and prairie rattlesnake, but around Edmonton your best bet is the red-sided garter snake. It can be identified, naturally, by the red markings present between its bold yellow stripes. Garter snakes eat worms, fish, and other small animals, meaning warm grassy places close to water are good spots to find them. They're fast yet docile little snakes, and are harmless to humans. You might get smeared with a nasty-smelling fluid if you pick one up, though. 

Mammals and Birds

From things with scales to things with fur, mammals large and small are found across the city. A walk in any forested Edmonton ravine isn't complete without the scolding chirps of the North American red squirrel from the branches above. These busy and feisty critters must be the easiest native mammals to see around the city. Other local squirrels include tiny chipmunks who hide sheepishly among the undergrowth and the much larger groundhog. Speaking of big rodents, beavers and muskrats are right at home in urban creeks and wetlands. It was beavers, after all, that drove the early settler economy of this city. Beavers can be tricky to spot as they spend much of their time either under water or asleep in their lodge (not to be confused with a dam), but their presence is easy enough to notice thanks to the chewed tree stumps they leave in their habitat. You can find evidence of them in creek ravines like the Wedegewood or Whitemud. Don't be fooled by the docile appearance of a beaver and try to approach it, though. A cornered beaver can be aggressive and deliver a harmful bite with those enlarged teeth of theirs. Another hazardous rodent, the porcupine, can also be found in the city. They spend most of the days asleep up in a tree, normally coming down at night to wander and feed. I remember seeing their tracks in the snow and chew marks on the bird feeders when I worked at the John Janzen Nature Centre. The painful quills of this animal are, of course, safely admired from a distance. A good reason to keep your dog leashed. 

The watchdog of the woods, red squirrels aren't picky eaters, feeding on seeds, mushrooms, fruit, and even small birds. Photo by me

Another local mammal that prefers the cover of night are bats. Alberta has a few different bat species, and while some folks might be afraid of these flying mammals, they do us no harm and a lot of good considering how many insects per night they consume. If you keep an eye out for bats in wooded areas after dark, you might find they're easier to catch a glimpse of than you first thought as they whip by above your head. Whenever I'm sitting around a fire pit on a summer evening, once it gets dark I like to simply lean back in the chair, look up at the sky, and sooner or later a bat will sometimes zip by. Want to help out your local bats? Consider getting a bat box to encourage them to hang around (literally).

One of the most common plant-eaters, second only perhaps to the red squirrel in sightings, is the white-tailed jackrabbit. Alberta is home to a few different rabbit and hare species, but this one with its lanky build and long ears is one of the boldest. Places like suburban yards, grassy parks, and even the University of Alberta campus are teeming with these hares. Spring and fall might be the best time to spot them as they're in that awkward mid-way period in their seasonal colour change. 

Even larger mammals like deer and moose can be seen around the city, including surprisingly urban areas. The forested parts of the river valley is rich with mule deer, but I've also seen them grazing on lawns along busy roadways. Where there are prey animals there will often be predators as well. Small carnivores like weasels can hide out easily enough in city parks, and I imagine many if not most city residents have spotted a coyote. In eastern cities the red fox is the main urban dog, but out west the intelligent and tenacious coyote rules the streets. This species laughs in the face of persecution by humans, and it's to our best interest and theirs for us to learn to live alongside them. Coyotes help keep the rabbit and rodent populations from exploding, but wouldn't turn their noses up at your garbage or small pet either, so make sure both of these are safe and secured. Neither should coyotes be approached or, especially, fed by people. 

Larger carnivores within the city are uncommon, but the river valley does act as a sort of natural highway through town for black bears and even the rare cougar. Both these species are occasionally reported, not often enough that you need to carry bear spray with you on a walk through the park, but hey, just so you know... 

Lastly we come to the birds, which are nothing less than a type of dinosaur- the only type to survive the end-Cretaceous extinction. It's fitting that Alberta has a great record of fossilized and living dinosaurs to find. Now the easiest urban birds to see are probably pigeons and House Sparrows, but you should know that neither of these species are native to North America. They were brought over from Europe. For native species, the twin bird icons of Alberta cities must be the Black-capped Chickadee and the Black-billed Magpie. Both can be found in neighborhood yards, parks, and wooded trails, though one is definitely more beloved than the other. Say what you will about magpies, but their intelligence and adaptability means you can't help but respect them. Magpies are nothing if not survivors. 

You also have to love chickadees. They zip along through the branches cheerful and conspicuous, whether it's in sweltering July or frigid February. City chickadees often become fairly used to people, which makes them remarkably approachable. Bring a handful of birdseed to the trails in Whitemud Park, hold still and offer it to a nearby flock, and with just a little patience you'll almost certainly succeed in having a chickadee boldly perch on your hand only to grab a seed and flit away. This simple yet wonderful interaction with nature is something to treasure, and we must not abuse it. 

City birders have a lineup of common species that are often seen in parks and neighborhood at different times of the year. White-breasted Nuthatches, Downy Woodpeckers, House Finches, and American Robins are common city birds. Mobs of Bohemian Waxwings descend on the city each winter to feed on ash berries, and are replaced by Cedar Waxwings in late spring. Crow-sized Pileated Woodpeckers, with their manic laughing call, pop up in spots with big dead trees, but I've also seen them in old neighborhoods near busy Whyte Avenue. Places with big enough ponds like Hawrelak Park are conquered by Canada Geese every spring, plus the less cantankerous Mallard Ducks. Red-winged Blackbirds sing their metallic screeches from anywhere that cattails grow. Sparrows, warblers, and vireos are easy to hear yet often tricky to spot in the wall of green that overtakes the river valley each summer. In older, more mature strands of forest watch the tree trunks for the tiny, cryptic Brown Creeper scuttling up the bark. 

While there are fewer birds around in winter, the lack of greenery makes it easier to see the species that stay, like this White-breasted Nuthatch. Photo by me

Wherever these hapless ducks and songbirds live, there are predators that eat them. Merlins and American Kestrels are our neighborhood falcons- watch for their fighter jet shape and stiff wing beats as they tear by overhead. Larger, rarer falcons like the peregrine have been known to roost and nest on tall buildings in the heart of downtown, and the old grain terminal along the Yellowhead is renowned among birders for occasionally becoming the hunting ground of mighty Gyrfalcons during the winter, sometimes with the addition of smaller Prairie Falcons. 

Watch for soaring buteos like the Swainson's and Red-tailed Hawk over open highways. Woodland accipiter hawks like the Cooper’s and Sharp-shinned Hawk hunt for songbirds near feeders, while the larger Northern Goshawk can sometimes be spotted in Whitemud Park. Bald Eagles along the river waiting to snatch up a duck or steal a fish from another raptor. 

If you love watching birds, or at least the idea of it, the Edmonton Nature Club is a fairly bird-centric community to join, and in just about any natural area in or around the city you can run into folks with binoculars or giant cameras looking for birds. 

All of this is just a sample of the flora, fauna, and geology that you can find within Edmonton without working terribly hard to having a lot of unusual luck. For urban naturalists both new and experienced there's plenty of places to explore and neat things to see here. 

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